Within this article we are going to examine another new kit available from Freetronics, a company formed to provide many interesting Arduino-based products after the publication of the book “Practical Arduino” by Jonathan Oxer and Hugh Blemings – which in itself is a good read, there are many interesting projects to make and learn from.
Today we examine their answer to “is there a kit version of the TwentyTen Arduino Duemilanove-compatible board?” – by assembling their KitTen. Some people may be wondering why one would want to build a KitTen instead of an assembled unit. Personally I could think of the following reasons:
- It’s fun to make something and see it work;
- You can save over Au$10;
- There are a lot more smoothing capacitors in the KitTen design than normal boards;
- There is a dedicated 3.3V 100 milliamp power regulator (twice the current of the usual board’s 50mA supply) – ideal for running thirsty shields that need a native 3.3V;
- The board is for a project that needs to use a modified version of the TwentyTen/Duemilanove;
- You want a board with a native serial instead of USB interface;
- All that lovely prototyping area above the microcontroller;
- The power light and LED for D13 are always visible due to their location on the edge of the PCB;
- You could solder in your microcontroller to avoid theft – great for school and public use (Yes, this has happened)…
And so on. Moving forward, opening the KitTen package reveals the following:
Once again with a Freetronics kit, all instructions are included in colour, as well as the circuit schematic and another sheet explaining how the KitTen will work with Arduino systems and the specifications. The PCB is solder-masked and silk-screened with a very informative layout:
The rest of the included components shipped in an anti-static bag, including labelled resistors and an IC socket for the microcontroller:
By following the included detailed instructions, everything went well. The layout on the PCB is detailed with all component values, which makes life easier. Starting with the low-profile components:
… followed by higher-profile components such as the IC socket and capacitors:
… and finally the shield sockets. Instead of trying to balance them, it is a lot quicker to place the sockets on an existing Arduino shield, turn it over, drop the KitTen on top then solder the pins in:
Then finally we are finished:
There are a couple of things to watch out for when using your KitTen. The first is to make sure you have the power-select jumper fitted correctly:
Place it on the left pins (as above) to power your KitTen from the FTDI cable; place the jumper on the right pins to power from the DC socket. You should use a power supply of between 9 to 12 volts DC at one amp. The second item to take care with is the blue power LED. The supplied model was so bright it was like staring into the sun. You may wish to test your own one and possibly replace it for a duller version, or use some fine sandpaper to reduce the brightness of the included LED. To upload sketches to your KitTen you will need a 5 volt FTDI cable. As mentioned above, this can also power your board as well.
Remember, if you have any questions about these modules please contact Freetronics via their website.
Higher resolution images available on flickr.
Otherwise, have fun, stay safe, be good to each other – and make something!
[Note – the kit assembled in this article was received from Freetronics for review purposes]